Before sending your cards in to get third-party grading, it is important to understand the criteria the various grading companies use. This will help you decide which cards to send in and get the highest possible grade. In order to check and evaluate cards for grading, it is best to have the following items:
Discoloring is identifiable with a jewelers loupe. Some people will attempt to mask edge wear on colored bordered cards by using a similar color Sharpie marker to cover the damaged part of the card that's visibly white part. To the naked eye, this trick may work. However, under bright light and magnification, such modifications are easy to spot.
When examining your cards, it is important to use a critical and discerning eye. You must leave any emotional, sentimental or financial involvement out of any assessment.
Self-grading allows collectors to get an idea of the general condition a card is actually in. They can then get a better estimate what grade it might receive upon submission. Corners and edges that, to the naked eye, appear sharp, may not be when viewed under magnification. This will be done by a card grader, so make sure you do it in advance. Surface wear, print dots, and minor creases all play into the final grade a card receives.
Here are the list of grades and criteria from the four major grading companies that collectors can use to help in assessing their own cards:
Magnification can also detect doctoring done to remove creases. Sometimes people will apply pressure to a card, often with a spoon, to alter a card and try to remove an undesirable crease. Under light and magnification the surface will still display a slight wrinkle with a smoother, almost shinier area around the crease. While doing this may increase the card's eye-appeal, it is evidence of doctoring and, again, may result in a card being returned ungraded.
When examining vintage cards, it is important to measure the cards using a standard 6" ruler. Starting in 1957, almost all standard sized trading cards were, and continue to be, printed with a dimension of 2 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" high. Between 1952 and 1956, cards were printed with a format of 2 3/4" wide by 3 5/8" high. 1951 Topps Baseball cards were printed smaller with a size of 2" wide by 2 5/8" high. Knowing the exact dimensions of the card for the year they were printed is important as unethical dealers and collectors have been known to trim cards to eliminate soft corners and edge wear. Trimmed cards are returned ungraded.
Collectors who invest the time and money to pre-grade their cards before sending them in will to save time, money, and potential disappointment. Collectors will also be able to better judge whether a card should be graded and have a realistic idea of what a card should grade ahead of time. It is a good idea to self-grade all cards you are submitting and record their self-grade. That way, when you get the cards back from grading, any discrepancies can be thoroughly examined. It also allows collectors to ask specific questions, based on their understanding of the card's condition, as to why a card was returned in a certain grade.
Read the related article - Guide into trading card grading
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